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GOYNUK


Göynük is a picturesque town in northwest Turkey, halfway between Istanbul and Ankara. The houses climb either side of a narrow valley from the banks of a small river, creating a prospect that would charm the most hardened traveller. The finest views over Göynük are from the Clock Tower or the opposite hilltop. Having looked your fill it is time to make your way downhill to the Çınaraltı Coffee House on the banks of the Göynük river, where you will discover that time has stood still here. Suddenly you are reminded of the things that really matter in life: human warmth, exchanging greetings, smiling, the joy of life. As you stroll through the streets complete strangers give you a friendly greeting and add, 'Hoş geldiniz' (Welcome). They show you their houses and offer you cups of coffee.Göynük is 220 kilometres southeast of Istanbul and 230 kilometres from Ankara. So having got there, where should you begin? First the Clock Tower, to which any small child you encounter in the street can direct you. This tower is Göynük's landmark, constructed to commemorate the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923. When you climb the stairs and emerge at the summit, all of Göynük is spread at your feet. Then it is time to explore the streets at closer quarters.

The traditional houses of Göynük are between a century and a half old. It is possible to look round Hükümet Konağı (Government House) and with the permission of the owners, the Pulcular, Yahya, Müderrisoğlu, and Hikmet Yerlikaya houses. These are large timber framed houses of two or three storeys. Along the banks of the river, half concealed by the weeping willows, are more modest houses. The houses of Göynük lean against the steeply sloping valley sides, resting on a stone basement. The kitchen and store rooms are on the ground floor and the main living areas on the top floors. The principal reception room, the sofa, is distinguished by small upper windows, sometimes with stained glass, above the main windows.

Each house has its own individual character. Family photographs on the walls give glimpses into the past. You see children who are now elderly grandmothers, and pictures of young brides. Like a documentary film the years pass before your eyes. The memories of 'Cinema' Hayrettin would make a fascinating documentary in themselves. Hayrettin himself reminisces about how he showed the first films in Göynük on a 16 mm camera at 25 kuruş (piastres) per person; how Mustafa Kemal Atatürk rewarded him with 100 liras when he presented him with a photograph he had taken; how he applied to enter the Academy of Fine Arts but was not accepted, and other aspirations which never came true. Continuing our wanderings through Göynük, our attention was caught by the 14th century Gazi Süleyman Paşa Hamam (Turkish bath) built by Süleyman Paşa the son of Sultan Orhan between 1331 and 1335. The bath is still in use today. Constructed entirely of stone, there is a dome over the changing area, tepidarium and private rooms. Another historic building is the mausoleum which Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror built for his teacher Akşemseddin in 1464. It is a hexagonal domed structure of tufa stone, whose upper windows have stained glass set in stucco tracery. The beautiful catafalque is of walnut with an inscription carved in relief.

Akşemseddin's sons Sadullah Çelebi and Emrullah Çelebi are also buried in the tomb. Another mausoleum in the town belongs to Ömer Sikkin, a follower of the mystic Hacı Bayram. Venturing outside the town, in the village of Soğukçam, are the carved Phrygian reliefs and inscriptions known as Yazılıkaya and Gergefkaya, and in the village of Kilciler are some interesting Byzantine ruins. The countryside around Göynük is varied and beautiful. Walking around the nearby Lake Çubuk or in the mountains is popular with hikers, who camp in the area. Lake Çubuk is 10 kilometres from the town, and the pretty village of Çubuk stands on the shore.Slightly further away is Lake Sünnet, to reach which you drive 22 kilometres along the road to Bolu from Göynük, then turn off to the right and go another five kilometres. With an area of 18 hectares, the lake lies in a bowl in the hills, and was formed as a result of an ancient landslide which blocked the outlet of the streams. This area is a national park, and there is accommodation for visitors on the lake shore. The spa of Çatak Hamam 30 kilometres from Göynük is fed by hot mineral springs with a temperature of 32 degrees Centigrade. The water is good for rheumatism. There are Roman remains in the spa. Tours to the local mountain pastures of Çubuk, Çiçekli, Karabey and Demirözü run by Göynük Hotel is a good way to explore the surrounding countryside. There are many picturesque villages in the district worth visiting, Soğukcam, Gerişler, Aksaklar, Memeceler, Aşağı Kınık and Kilciler being but a few. If you want to take a souvenir of Göynük back home for yourself or your friends, then wind up your trip with a visit to the village of Kılavuzlar. Here local woodcarvers produce attractive spoons, kitchen articles and decorative items. Altogether Göynük is the perfect place for a memorable weekend, or indeed several, away from the city.

Bu haber 20/05/2010 tarihinde eklenmiştir.

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